Greyfriars Bobby’s Relaunches
From early spring through to the start of winter, Edinburgh’s rain-slicked streets are perennially clogged with tourists. Slowly shuffling around in their ponchos, they gaze upwards – ever upwards – at the buildings, pointing their Nikons at anything that catches the eye. Aside from the castle, the parliament and groups of idle men leaning on spades – what else do they take snaps of? For instance – what’s the most-photographed pub in the city?
You might think it would be one of Edinburgh’s neat, historical boozers like the Bow Bar – or maybe a pub like Maggie Dickson’s, nestling in the Grassmarket. However, by my reckoning it has to be Greyfriars Bobby’s Bar. Every tourist (and, ahem, beer blogger) who takes a picture of the life-sized statue of little Bobby also inadvertently captures the pub that bears his name. It may just be in the background, but Bobby’s Bar has to be the most-photographed.
Owned by Mitchells & Butlers (as Nicholson’s), the pub sits at the top of Candlemaker Row – and for a while had been looking a bit tatty round the edges, and in need of a refit. The chain are spending some serious attention on their estate, having recently modernised the Haymarket Bar (for the better) and the Sheep Heid Inn (sadly, for the worse). Immediately inside the new Bobby’s – which re-opened yesterday – you get the same, re-invented feeling.
There’s the typical dark wood in the Nicholson’s style, the floorboarded bar area and tartan carpet on the raised dining section. Again, it seems as if the re-brand means that food is ever the order of the day – table service has been added throughout Bobby’s. A lot of the changes have been behind the scenes though, as the kitchens have been overhauled pretty much completely. Judging by the platters of nibbles that passed around, the food should be great.
There are five handpulls on the bar, with the usual brands of kegged lager also available. M&B pubs are always heavy on the Caley – three of the five cask ales were devoted to their offerings – Caley 80/-, Deuchars and their seasonal Golden Sun. Also on offer were two bespoke beers – Nicholson’s Pale Ale (made by St Austell) and Inveralmond Made By Us – both were good, the NPA a decent lemony quaffer, and the MBU a darker, slightly more roasty bitter.
Bobby’s has a loyal clientele – they certainly packed into the pub yesterday – hopefully they all approve of the changes. To be honest, aside from the cosmetic, most of them are behind the scenes, so things should carry on as they were. With attentive staff, as you always seem to get in Nicholson’s pubs, I’m sure that the refresh will do the power of good to Bobby’s – as to the people that drink there, it’s more than just a backdrop.
Greyfriars Bobby’s Bar, 30-34 Candlemaker Row, Edinburgh EH1 2QE
Tel: 0131 225 8328 Website, Twitter Feed