The Sheep Heid reopens…

Edinburgh’s oldest pub – Duddingston’s Sheep Heid Inn – re-opened at the end of November following a re-branding and a change of management. Due to it’s location, the Sheep Heid was never really a beer destination – instead, it was very much the place to go for Sunday lunch or following an afternoon stroll through Holyrood Park. Four cask ales on offer were usually interesting enough to make the walk worthwhile, although when you got there you’d either love the decor or hate it.

Since the takeover by Mitchells & Butlers the inside of the pub looks very different – almost all of the clutter has been removed, and more tables have been added to the downstairs. Having been unchanged for so long, it probably did need updating – and the extra space created by moving the ladies toilets has certainly opened up the back (albeit at the expense of the stuffed albino otter). Taxidermy fans have plenty of ram heads to stare at, however.

You only need a few minutes to realise that the Sheep Heid has gone gastro. Slate grey walls, mismatched furniture, easy jazz over the sound system. It used to be that when you walked into the Sheep Heid – whether you liked the dark interior or not – you could appreciate that it was the oldest pub in Scotland. Now, it looks like pretty much any other food-first pub, only with stuffed sheep on the walls. It’s certainly far less relaxing to be in, with only a handful of tables to sit at by the bar.

Pubs that serve good food can – and do – work, however. Particularly if in the past the pub has been known as a place to go for long lunches. On our visit, the food was superb. Other people had been waiting for their meals for an hour and a half, however. Warned at the beginning that this would be the case – and not being in a hurry anyway – thankfully our food arrived much sooner than that. Giving tables with kids free crisps was a nice touch, but with so many tables – have they taken on more than they can handle?

Pubs change – it’s the nature of the business. But they should also play to their strengths. Whether the Sheep Heid dates from 1360 or not, it’s the oldest pub in the city – and the interior should reflect this. Following the M&B takeover, it now looks identical to the Salisbury Arms – another of their Edinburgh pubs. Whilst the old Sheep Heid may have been gloomy – it certainly had character. Now, it looks like any other Scottish country restaurant.

The Sheep Heid website