Redwillow takeover the Caley
“We make beers people like to drink” – Toby McKenzie
Edinburgh has been spoiled by the sudden rush of tap takeovers in recent weeks, as brewers from far and wide nervously hand over their life’s work to willing publicans across the city. As each event takes place, the number of people I recognise increases – so either the Edinburgh beer crowd is growing into a decent size, or I’m drinking less and the old grey matter is managing to retain the detail of their cheerful, ruddy-cheeked faces.
Last night, Toby McKenzie of Macclesfield’s Redwillow Brewery pitched up at the Caley Sample Room following a long journey from Cheshire. Fortunately for us after-work beerhounds, the majority of his output was already tapped and flowing. As with Buxton last week, Redwillow don’t often trouble the Scottish market – presumably due to a combination of factors (their size and the number of more easily-reached cities, for example).
Again, as we found with Buxton – this is a real shame. Redwillow produce (or rather, Toby produces) some fantastic beers. His stout, Fathomless, was one of our beers of 2011, wonderfully blending 300 oysters in every brew. For the Caley to have ten of his beers to showcase was a major coup for Darren and his team – not to mention a must-attend for the aforementioned Edinburgh beer crowd.
Toby sat on the bar and said a few words of introduction, before the pouring of his latest addition to the Faithless experimental range – XIV (a 5.9% Pale Ale). He explained his philosophy – that beer should be fun for all concerned (although the oysters might disagree), and reminded everyone how far they have come in a remarkably short eighteen months. He also revealed that the brewery title neatly derives from the middle names of his children – Willow and Red.
The highlights of the evening were, for me, the peachy fizz of Wreckless – which could very plausibly have been one of my five a day – and the coppery, iron-rich Feckless. If anyone ever assumes that the modern beer scene revolves around massive hop-laden double IPA’s – put them on to Feckless, as good a chestnut bitter as there is anywhere. Admittedly, Toby bangs out a few of the big boys as well – Ageless and Remorseless are both heavy hitters – Redwillow can seemingly turn their hand to any style.
If that sounds like too broad a shining opinion, in the interest of balance this iteration of the Fathomless wasn’t quite as briney as the one I had in Leeds last year – although it retained the sweet smoothness. I also, still, get confused with the names – Sleepless and Endless? Feckless and Wreckless? Having said that, I do love the convention – and Toby explained that they aren’t simply words plucked at random, each has a purpose.
Checking morewords reveals 649 variations in ~less – yielding potential future beer names such as Rudderless, Dauntless and Witless. Also Shirtless, Sleeveless and Shoeless (a range of summer specials?). Here in Scotland we have Loch Ness who run a similar theme, albeit they have 2874 to play with (look out for their latest beer – Fissiparousness).
To be honest, my confusion with the names simply comes from the fact that I’m just not that familiar with Redwillow’s beers – hopefully that will change very soon. In the meantime, if I get in a muddle over Headless and Heartless, the worst that will happen is I end up with a great beer I didn’t know I wanted.
