Harviestoun keep the plates spinning

Breweries – the good ones, that is – are seemingly never satisfied with how things are. Whether updating the core range, making room for new hops, or re-badging an existing line – nothing is sacred. Often, of course, these things are dictated by other powers – such as issues with supply, distribution or hop performance. But, on the whole, those breweries that like to be seen as progressive do not stand still for long, and are willing to shake things up every now and again, to keep things fresh.

One brewery that has been spritzing recently are Harviestoun. Long purveyors of cask and keg, recent attention has been turned to their bottled lineup. Rumours have abounded for a while that they may seek to launch their US-only Engineer’s Reserve into the home market – which would be a very good thing indeed. But, of more substance, they have also been tinkering with some of the more established classics. Firstly, Bitter & Twisted and Schiehallion were released in 330ml bottles for the first time (500ml versions will remain), with the latter having been re-branded in a fetching silvery sheen.

Ostensibly for the restaurant trade, Harviestoun seem to have recognised the lighter, hoppier numbers would be in demand from pairing-curious diners. With the adoption of the smaller bottle size, it seems as if they are really running with it – each month this year will see a special 330ml release of one of their cask beers. At the moment, following the festive Haggis Hunter, Natural Blonde is in the starting blocks. Alongside this:- small numbers of each batch will be bottle-conditioned.

This is something of a development for Harviestoun – and it clearly fits more neatly into Stuart Cail’s ethos. At the same time, the Alva brewery have been further experimenting. Firmly in the ‘nothing sacred’ pigeonhole, they have been looking at Ola Dubh. The barrel-aged flagship – one of the pioneers of the craft in Scotland – Ola Dubh is essentially high-gravity Old Engine Oil (brewed to 10.5%) which is then mellowed over time in Highland Park casks, coming in at 8% once the ageing process is complete.

Well, a while ago, Harviestoun’s Ewan McCowen hurriedly pressed a clinking case into my hands in a carpark (true story), before departing in a cloud of tyre smoke. On opening, the box revealed a dozen, 330ml, bottle-conditioned, trial bottles of the high-gravity Ola Dubh. Yes, the 10.5%er. And it’s fantastic. Given – it’s black, oily and viscous – but the bottle-conditioning gives it that extra depth, and lifts it. Sweet, smooth, oaky whisky on the finish as ever – it will be interesting to see how the flavours develop in the other bottles, tucked carefully away in a safe place.