Bières Bourganel

‘French beer is unknown’ states Raymond Duyck – of Brasserie Duyck – in this article by Will Hawkes in the Independent. In Europe’s premier wine-first culture, beer has always – and, let’s face it, will always – play second fiddle to the noble grape. But there’s a long tradition of small-scale, artisan brewing in the country – exactly the kind of thing that, if it were cheese, or cider, the foodies would be all over. Drinkies such as us have been quietly enjoying French beer for a long time – particularly BeerCaster MrB, who for years has dragged his groaning car back across La Manche, laden with unusual and unheard-of gems.

In our Beer of the Year podcast at the beginning of January, we sampled four fascinating beers from a small Brasserie in the south of France – each one with a notable local ingredient added. To me, beer from across the Channel seems to delight in adding these unorthodox adjuncts – which give the final offering a rural, almost foraged-for quality. As a result, they seem individual and hand-crafted, and are therefore the complete opposite of mass-produced macro-beer. Forget Kronenbourg, and try Mor Braz La Bière Cidrèè – an apple fruit beer infused with Normandy seawater. Admittedly, the latter is significantly harder to come by than the former – but I’d take any Bière de Garde over Kronenbourg (unless you intended to slurp some Picon into it).

Back to our four bonus beers – at the end of the 1990’s Christian Bourganel decided to attempt to re-create the brewing scene in the south of France, by opening a facility in the Ardèche spa town of Vals les Bains. Describing his products as ‘speciality beers’, Christian states that they “…reflect the flavors of the Ardèche region and offer a wealth of tastes to be discovered!”. Alongside these more eccentric creations are the stock French styles of a blonde and an ambrée – but, of course, it’s the wacky flavours that make for better BeerCasts…

1. Bourganel Bière aux Marrons de l’Ardeche (5%)

The Mediterranean’s primary ‘marron’ beer is probably Pietra – the 6% Corsican offering that contains chestnut flour. Bourganel’s version features chestnut puree (plus vanilla), and is very different. A dry, wheaty start – reminiscent of Weetabix – is followed by a sweet, nutty edge on the finish. Ultimately disappointing, it could do with a soupçon more marron, and a soupçon less vanille.

What they say…
“A perfectly balanced fruity beer that plays on flavor’s originality as much as its undeniable character”

What we say…
“It’s not great. As a beer, I never want to drink it again” [Shovels]

2. Bourganel Bière aux Myrtilles de l’Ardeche (5%)

Many of the unusual ingredients added to French beers are fruit-based, and this one contains the enigmatic bilberry. Related to the attention-grabbing blueberry, the publicity-shy cousin is red inside (as opposed to green or white) and known by many different names all over the world – Blåbær, Whortleberry, Blaubeere, Fraughan. In France – Myrtilles. A vibrant dark red, the beer is lovely – long, dry bluebilberry flavour all the way.

What they say…
“The acidulated touch offers with success a rare freshness to this well mastered aromatization.”

What we say…
“I really like it, the blueberry fruit really comes across” [Grooben]

3. Bourganel Bière au Nougat (5%)

This was a new one for all of us. Although apparently an Italian invention, nougat (beaten egg whites and honey, studded with nuts) is classically French, having been perfected in and around Montélimar. In this beer, it was quite amazing – the instant, and unmistakable, aroma of nougat. Soft, sweet nutty honey followed on the flavour as well – all agreed that Mr. Bourganel’s beers certainly taste of their added ingredients.

What they say…
“We are talking about a talented flavoured beer, without any heaviness but deep in tastes!”

What we say…
“That’s the craziest thing ever – I really don’t like nuts” [MrB]

4. Bourganel Bière a la Verveine du Velay (5%)

Another new experience followed with the final beer – as it was riotously green. Although it looked uncomfortably like mouthwash, the adjunct here was Verveine – the famed liqueur from the region of Le-Puy-en-Velay. We’d not heard of it either, but oak-aged blend of 32 plants rocks up at 55%, and has apparently been blended with the unspecified Bourganel base beer. It’s slightly vegetal, a touch herbal – unusual, but drinkable.

What they say…
“A controlled masterpiece for Bourganel’s brewery and a thirst-quenching fine result…”

What we say…
“I’ve never seen a beer that colour in my life” [Grooben]