Williams 80/-

Posted by on Nov 15, 2009 in Scottish Beer | No Comments

Scotland has given many things to the world relating to drink – single malt whisky, Shetland gin, Irn-Bru, Rabb C Nesbitt – but also the distinctive Scottish Ale, and the Shilling scale of classification. Growing our beer knowledge in Scotland, from young students knocking back subsidised £1.20 pints of McEwans 70/- in Uni bars, we’ve become highly familiar with the classic range of beers and their increasing heftiness. Originally relating to prices charged per barrel – 60, 70, 80 and 90 shilling beers are characteristically Scottish (as are their alternate names – Light, Heavy, Export and Wee Heavy).

Trouble is, they are often also characteristically awful. They tend to have very similar flavours – dominated by general malty sweetness and overpowering caramel tastes. Our first ever BeerCast podcast was a discussion on 80/- ales and their tendency to be syrupy and cloying, yet weak and strangely unsatisfying. Personally, I take a wide berth from local market-leader Caledonian 80/- these days (although that could be down to many rough Sunday mornings during my campus days). But as a brewing style (or series of styles) they should be cherished, if only for historical reasons – much like the controversial British Mild.

Like milds, many breweries have turned their backs on Shilling ales – although the natural patriotism of Scottish brewers has meant many of them still produce at least an 80/- in their range. Some are even turning back the clock and re-discovering the humble Export. One such brewer are Alloa’s Williams Bros, who made their names reviving lost styles of Scottish beer, so are a natural choice to tempt “modern” ale drinkers (if we can call ourselves that) to take a punt on an 80/-. Launched in time to co-incide with the 2009 Sainsbury’s Beer Competition is Williams 80/- (4.2%). [It ended up making the final shortlist].

I’ve always thought the best thing about an 80/- is the smell – sweet, malty and a bit like toffee ice cream (at least this is what I get from the William Bros’ version). These are beers that need to be served only slightly cool – or chilled and then left to get back to room temperature before drinking. It pours carbonated, but with no head, just a thin lacing of bubbles and with a dark ruby, almost blackcurrant colour. As expected, the twin tastes that come at you are malt and sweetness, plus a touch of fruit – although we’re not into the fruitcakes of darker ales. It’s sweet though, and it gets sweeter as it warms – which is the problem I used to have with shilling ales, I think. There’s a slight taste of something akin to dandelion and burdock, which might just be me – anyway, it’s a nice beer, very drinkable, which for a style I’m not keen on probably means it’s much better than I give it credit for.

Williams Bros website

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