The BeerCast

Two weeks ago we met with Craig Middleton, founder of one of Scotland’s newest producers – Cromarty Brewing Co. Highly enthusiastic, Craig told us about all kinds of different projects in the pipeline – but also that he was launching both of his beers (plus a bonus) into Edinburgh on the 17th of February at the Kilderkin. So, of course, we turned up to sample his beer and see what kind of flavours he’s getting into his early offerings.

First up was his debut beer, Cromarty’s flagship – Happy Chappy (4.1%). A ‘new wave pale ale’ that has been doing the rounds on the Black Isle, but has only just made it to Edinburgh. A golden session beer, it has a lightly floral nose, with some soft citrus on the flavour. Maybe a touch more carbonation would lift it, but as an initial outing, it shows a huge amount of promise.

Next on the list was Island Shuffle, which is essentially Happy Chappy brewed with German yeast, and then dry hopped with Columbus. The difference was immediate – a big lemon zest aroma, then much more bitterness to the palate throughout. The body is slightly lacking for the hop profile – but in a dry-hopped 4.1% beer that’s very often be the case. The zesty fruit flavours definitely make up for it.

So Island Shuffle was good, but Brewed Awakening was better. A 4.7% coffee stout, being jet black it looked the business – and also delivered a roasty coffee bean aroma. Coffee on the flavour, with a touch of caramel sweetness, before the bitter roasty finish. Here the smooth body helped, giving the coffee more chance to come through – and in that respect it reminded me of Summer Wine’s Barista – one of the best UK lower-abv coffee stouts.

Expect more good things from Craig once he gets a few months under his belt – there’ll be plenty more of interest descending from the Black Isle, without doubt…

Cromarty Brewing website

Fyne Ales’ latest beer launched in Edinburgh last night – Cobbler Stout (4.2%) – a dark session offering to sit with their other easy-drinking roasty options such as Maverick and Vital Spark. The latter could well be the best beer they produce (cue sharp intake of breath from Jarl fans) – pound for pound it packs in some fantastic blackcurrant flavour. It, along with all of their currently produced beers, was on offer at Cloisters Bar last night, as a prelude to the arrival of the Cobbler.

To me, they are one of the very best breweries in the country – their range of light session beers is better than any other. Alongside the all-conquering Jarl (widely acclaimed to be one of the best beers to come out of Scotland in 2010), their classic Avalanche, Piper’s Gold and Hurricane Jack are all supremely drinkable. Recently, however, they have been on a darker bent – Cherry Stout (which unfortunately I missed), West Highland Black IPA (which thankfully I didn’t), and the 6.8% Sublime Stout are all recent additions.

So it seems that a regular, session strength stout would fit well into the dark range, whilst providing the drinkability of the lighter offerings.* Cobbler Stout is named after the baked fruit pudding a local mountain – Ben Arthur, which sits at the head of Loch Long (one over from Loch Fyne). It’s more commonly known as The Cobbler – apparently the summit features are said to resemble a shoemaker bending over his workbench (which, as you can see from this photo, they clearly do). But what does it actually taste like?

First off, it’s deep reddish-black, with a tight cream-coloured head resembling a pint of Guinness. There’s a fruity aroma, reminiscent of the Vital Spark, and some chocolate on the nose from the malt. Tastewise, it has a light coffee edge before a lot of blackcurrant and blackberry fruit come out, along with some faint vanilla on the end. Like all of their beers, it’s very dry, and very sessionable. At 4.2%, the body is never going to dominate – but the mix of flavours on the aftertaste more than make up for it.

* Note, I am available to write brewery marketing speak, for a fee.

The theory sounded highly plausible. Whereas in the first Battle of the Brewers (between Stewart Brewing and Williams Bros Brewing) it was immediately evident which beer was produced by which company – this time, it wasn’t so obvious. Back in July, just a quick sip of each 5% summer ale was enough – that distinctive caramel sweetness from Williams, put against the Holyrood-esque gentle hopping of the other. Clearly Beer X came from Loanhead, and Beer Y from Alloa – and so it proved. But last night, as Stewart took on Harviestoun in BotBII – a Black IPA-off – it was much harder to tell. But I had a theory.

There was a noticeable difference between the two beers. Beer X came with a white head, and a nose full of grassy hop. Although there was some caramel, and a roasty finish, the hops really were the prime component of the flavour – as you’d expect, from a Black IPA. Beer Y had a beige head, and was infinitely more complex, with less hop, but more roast. Richer – and smoother – than X, it ended in a mocha coffee finish. Creamy – almost to the point of an old milk stout, it was very different from what you’d expect a Black IPA to be. This, of course, led into the familiar discussions on beer styles and how important they are (the consensus being that on the whole; they aren’t).

But, which was which? And which was nicer?

I preferred Y – even though I love hop-forward Black IPA’s. There was just something a bit extra in the flavour to Y, an extra element. I loved the smooth, creamy finish. To be honest, I think I loved it because it reminded me of a great roasty stout and it was close to freezing outside. Obviously, if we were judging solely on style it was far behind the X. However, taste trumps style (nearly) every time.

But back to the theory as to who was responsible for each. Both make some decent hoppy beer, although with their peerless Old Engine Oil Harviestoun have a longer history of the darker offerings. The deviously clever idea I had came from lateral thinking. Very recently, Stewart have done another run of their lovely Coconut Porter – aka ‘Bounty in a glass’. I could see the resemblance to Y. It would be easy enough to add a touch more hop before the coconut went in, and cask it. Both the Coconut Porter and Beer Y have that smooth, creamy edge. I could see how they fit together. Therefore – Beer Y was from Stewart Brewing. Yes! Of course!

Beer Y was produced by Harviestoun, Beer X by Stewart.

In the voting, Y scored 52 to X’s 100. So for the second Battle of the Brewers in succession, it’s a win for the home team. Next up, BotBIII – Stewart vs. BrewDog*

*Note – this may not actually be true

It really is a great time for Scottish brewing at the moment, with new producers appearing left, right and centre – and also a long way north of the centre. Until now, the Black Isle was home to one very successful brewery, but the non-island (like Monster Island – it’s actually a peninsula) has a second – the Cromarty Brewing Company. Founded last year by Heriot-Watt graduate Craig Middleton, they recently released their first beer – Happy Chappy, a 4.1% NZ/US-hopped pale ale. This week, Craig was back in Edinburgh setting up contacts with many of the city’s pubs (a tough day’s work by any standard).

We caught up with him at BrewDog Edinburgh, and after a couple of 2/3rd’s* of Lagunitas IPA and the quite brilliant Evil Twin Istedgade Hipster Ale, we chatted about his philosophy and how he’s been getting on so far. Beginning with a 4% session beer is a great way to get local interest in his business – particularly in a part of Scotland with plenty of thirsty farmers. But Craig’s second beer is something very different, and he’s got a huge amount of enthusiasm for things he could do in the future. “I’ve got hundreds of ideas”, he says. Certainly, if one particular plan comes off, it could be something entirely new in Scotland.

Having secured funding from the Scottish Government’s Rural development scheme, together with an Inverness bank, the money raised has been invested in an impressive kit. Craig’s experimental streak has already resulted in the production of an eisbock – Happy Chappy entombed in ice until the abv hit 8% (and re-named Chilly Chappy). With a bottling plant in-line and soon to be in place, look for good things to come from Cromarty over the next few months. Edinburgh drinkers can get to grips with both of their beers (although probably not the eisbock) at the Kilderkin on Friday the 17th of February.

*Yep, now you have to ask for ‘a two-thirds of Evil Twin Istedgade Hipster Ale, please’ rather than ‘pint, barman’

This week sees the beginning of one of the more keenly anticipated ten-day periods in Edinburgh – the start of the Bow Bar’s annual winter beer festival. From Thursday the 26th the famed Aitken tall founts will be dispensing (via air-pressure) a range of specially invited cask ales, with several kegged beers also appearing. With very probably only a single barrel of each arriving, be sure to keep an eye out for the Bow’s (twitter feed) as new beers come on.

For the uninitiated, the Bow Bar is one of Scotland’s best pubs – a classic, one-room, mirror-lined drinking house. No music or other distractions (unless the rugby’s on), and with literally several hundred whiskies to go for if a nip towards oblivion is required – it’s simply a must-visit if you find yourself in the city. Even if you’re normally a fan of lively pubs with plenty going on, the Bow is all about the drink – and everyone can agree on that, surely?

So what to sample? Looking at the beer list, fans of the hair-curlingly strong stuff (i.e. BeerCasters) will be delighted – in no particular order there should be Highland Old Norway (9.0%), Brodies Superior London Porter (7.3%) and Hoxton IPA (6.6%), Magic Rock Cannonball (7.4%), Fyne Ales Sublime Stout (6.8%), Orkney Skull Splitter (8.5%), Williams Profanity Stout (7.0%) and Thornbridge Yule (7.4%). There’s an afternoon to savour.

Some rare Scottish beers that will certainly be interesting include Stewart Brewing’s Chilli Reekie (6.2%), Broughton Winter Fire (4.2%), and Cairngorm’s German-style rye beer Roggen (4.3%) – all are certainly worth a punt. Cairngorm’s new neighbours Loch Ness Brewing have three ales down on the list, so look out for those. Also it’s heartening to see that Demon Brew at the Prestongrange Gothenburg have resumed production after the tragic death of Roddy Beveridge, with their classic Porter.

From further afield, the new and unusual (which for me is always the best thing about beer festivals) include the Liverpool Craft Beer Co with their 3.8% pale ale Icon, Allendale’s Winter Dunkel (4.6%), and Box Steam’s Funnel Blower Vanilla Porter (4.5%). I’ll also be after Redemption’s kiwi hop-packed Big Chief (5.5%), and the style-bending Ossett Indian Winter Ale (5.0%).

Oh, and Highland brewing’s Bow-exclusive 3.9% citra beer – called simply Citra…

The Bow Bar’s winter festival runs from Thursday 26th January to Sunday 5th February 2012. Check their Twitter feed for up to date information, or their website for directions. We’ll be posting the best of the beers on offer after the festival ends (or maybe during, if there are that many)…