The BeerCast

Brewing behemoth AB-InBev have been in the news a fair bit recently – probably understandable given they control 25% of the world’s beer (in terms of market share). At the end of last month they purchased Goose Island for a shade under $39m, dipping a gold-encrusted toe in the formerly unsullied craft beer waters. At the start of this month there were rumours of merger talks between themselves and SABMiller – although as expected it came to nothing. The latest piece of news concerns another of their brands – the newly announced alcohol free Hoegaarden 0.0.

This snippet came from the recently held AB-InBev shareholders meeting, and was reported by the Brussels desk of the Wall Street Journal, and then in turn by Stateside blogs such as Beervana (as admittedly I’m not up to speed with the Wall St Journal these days). On the face of it, plenty of large European brands have 0% versions – I don’t know if brands like Bitburger Drive, Becks Blue or Jever Fun make it over to the States, but giving drinkers a ‘sin alcohol’ version is commonplace on the continent.

So why does Hoegaarden 0.0 just seem wrong? Well, firstly there’s the fact that it was announced by the parent comapny at a shareholders meeting. Fair enough, Hoegaarden have been owned by AB-InBev (in their various guises) since their money helped Pierre Celis rebuild after a fire in the mid-1980′s, prior to the official takeover. Brands need to develop in these modern times, but the core attraction of Hoegaarden is the history – otherwise production would have been shunted up the road to Jupille by now. It’s all become just a bit too corporate.

The second reason is along the same lines, what with the contention that brands owned by AB-InBev never seem to taste quite like they once did – something that clearly concerned Goose Island fans last month. Being such an enormous company means that decisions have to be taken – on methods of production, restructuring, and ingredients. What exactly will the new alcohol-free Hoegaarden taste like? The members of the WSJ Brussels desk got hold of some – “akin to a watered-down lemon Fanta. OK — refreshing even — if you know what you’re getting.” was one verdict (although in fairness other tasters did say it was decent enough). There’s only one was to know of course, we’ll have to try and get hold of some for a tasting.

The final reason this kind of sticks in the craw is the timing. The meeting of the shareholders necessitated the announcement, but coming only two weeks after Pierre Celis’s death there’s something of the insensitive about it. Fair enough, it’s only an alcohol-free version of Hoegaarden – it’s not as if they are ceasing production or anything – but those who allege the drip-drip watering down of once great brands now owned by enormous, uncaring conglomerates have something else to point at. AB-InBev CEO Carlos Brito summed up the announcement by stating “you want a portfolio [of drinks] that allows consumers to stay within your franchise.” Indeed.

After four consecutive British-based podcasts, the BeerCast blasts over the constrains of the channel and into Europe. Arguably the finest brewing nation in the world (certainly per capita of population), Belgium is a beer-lover’s dream. As such, it was a natural choice to be the first pit-stop on the global beer circuit. This episode, our podcast studio is swelled by the presence of Andy and Jess (this time not via wires and cables, actually in person), having just come back from an adventure in Brussels. We try two fruity beers, and then two dark trappist ales – with varying results. Join us next time for more Belgian escapades with another podcast debutant. Until then, on with the show…

1. Timmerman’s Peche Lambic (4%abv)
Timmerman’s Brewery, Itterbeek.
330ml glass bottle

Timmermans have been brewing traditional lambic ales in the town of Itterbeek for over 150yrs, since 1781. They are now owned by the congolmerate Anthony Martin, but still produce old fashioned ales. A Lambic is a distinctive Belgian style of beer where instead of the usual introduced brewer’s yeast, the beer is left to ferment naturally over summer in giant open-air vats, exposed to wild airborne yeast. This gives the beer a distinctive dry, cidery, sour taste. All Lambic beers are produced in the Senne Valley, within 15km of the Belgian capital. Scientific tests have identified 86 different micro-organisms in a single beer. However, many of the key yeasts are understood to reside in the timber fermenting vessels rather than waft in on the breeze.

What They Say – “Timmermans Peche is a sweetened Lambic with added peach juice (14%). Only the juice is used, as the stone of the fruit is too bitter and would change the taste significantly. For best results, this beer should be drunk from a champagne tulip flute.” [Timmerman's Official website]

What We Say…
Andy – If I watched cricket, which I don’t, I would watch it whilst drinking this 8
Shovels – Sweet and it doesn’t really taste like a proper beer 5
Jess – I wouldn’t stick to this all night, it’s too much 4
Richard – All I can taste are peaches and sugar 4

2. Liefman’s Kriekbier (6%abv)
Liefman’s Brewery, Oudenaarde.
330ml glass bottle

Known as the ‘Pearl of the Flemish Ardennes’, Oudenaarde is a town in northwest Belgium. Liefman’s are one of the area’s many breweries, and at over 300yrs old, have a long history. They produce a range of fruit and wheat beers, but are perhaps most famed for their paper-wrapped kriekbier – a traditional Belgian beer fermented with Morello cherries. Made once a year in July when the cherry harvest takes place, they are dumped into casks of a year-old sour brown ale called Goudenbrand (similar to a lambic), and left to ferment for as long as six months. The resulting brew is bottled, wrapped, and shipped around the world. An acquired taste, it packs a real sweet and sour punch.

What They Say – “Kriekbier is quite sharp on the nose, with obvious cherries, some banana. In the mouth it is rather winey, with sour cherries and touches of bubblegum. The tart fruit is very mouth puckering, and is quite lively on the back of the throat.” [The Oxford Bottled Beer Database].

What We Say…
Richard – At least this is a bit nicer than the peach 5
Shovels – I’m no fan of sweet beer, and I don’t like cherries 3
Jess – I can’t drink it without my face screwing up 2
Andy – This one smells like a farm, and lingers everywhere 2

3. Chimay Rouge (7%abv)
Chimay Trappist Brewery, Chimay.
330ml glass bottle

‘Bieres de Chimay’ are located inside the abbey Notre-Dame de Scourmont, in the Wallonian municipality of Chimay, Southern Belgium. Since 1862 the Cistercian trappist monks have developed beer, which is still brewed on site. According to their website – “The monks carry out their work with the same concern for perfection that they strive for in their life of prayer and study, so over the course of time brewing has become a true art.” Chimay produce four beers – Rouge, Bleue, Blanche, and Doree. The latter is only drunk at the abbey, and is the monk’s own tipple. It’s so secret, no mention of it appears on their official website. Very, very rarely a bottle is spirited out and finds it way for sale – but not for us, as we made do with the Rouge.

What They Say – “Topped with a creamy head, Chimay Rouge gives off a light fruity apricot aroma. It’s taste, which imparts a silky sensation to the toungue, is made refreshing by a light touch of bitterness. To the palate, the taster perceives a pleasant astringency which complements the flavour qualities of this beer very harmoniously.” [Chimay Brewery]

What We Say…
Richard – This is such a nice beer, I like it a lot 8
Jess – Sour without sweet works, I would drink this 7
Shovels – Good bouquet, caramelly at the top of the mouth 6
Andy – Too bitter, quite strong, not my thing 3

4. Verboden Vrucht (8.5%abv)
Hoegaarden Brewery, Hoegaarden.
330ml glass bottle

Verboden Vruct – Le Fruit Defendu – Forbidden Fruit – call it what you will (and all three names are on the bottle), it’s a strong dark ale brewed by the massive Brouwerij de Kluis, Hoegaarden – one of the most famous names in world brewing. Founded in 1965 by Belgian milkman Pierre Celis, who, frustrated at the last traditional brewery in Hoegaarden closing, decided to revive the style and set up production in his hay loft. Sadly a fire in 1985 meant the brewery could only continue with aid from the Belgian national giant Interbrew (now InBev). Their increasing input frustrated Mr Celis, and he eventually sold out to them and moved to Texas to start brewing traditional Belgian beer there. InBev are the worlds largest beer producer, with sales in 2006 in 130 countries, worth €13bn.

What They Say – “Forbidden Fruit is a complex beer with a mixture of malts and spiced with coriander. It is deep red in colour, rich, sweet, malty, and full bodied.” [InBev website]

What We Say…
Jess – I like it, but I have to find out why 8
Richard – If it was half the abv I’d drink it all the time 7
Andy – Smoother and less intrusive than the Chimay 6
Shovels – This one sneaks up on you and goes ‘there I am’ 5

BeerCast panel verdict

Hoegaarden’s Verboden Vrucht – 26/40
Chimay Rouge – 24/40
Timmerman’s Peche Lambic – 21/40
Liefman’s Kriekbier – 12/40

Panellists – (from top left) Richard, Shovels, Jess, Andy

• Listen to the episode here: BeerCast #5 – Belgian Waffle
• Subscribe to the podcasts in iTunes or our site feed

We’ll be back in a couple of weeks with Episode 6. Stay tuned for details…and please leave us comments on the blog or iTunes, or emails. Cheers!