The BeerCast

The delights of a business trip to the heart of the West Midlands can be offset, if you know where to look. Here on the BeerCast we’ve been banging on about the Wellington at Bennet’s Hill for years (see here, here and here). Recently I was back and managed only the most fleeting of trips there, but I did manage to get hold of a couple of local bottles of ale I’d not seen before, to make up for the solitary pint I had time for.

Davenport’s Original Bitter (4.0%)
Highgate Brewery, Walsall

Highgate’s amber ale is bottled on behalf of the revived Davenports brand (the original having closed their Birmingham brewery in 1986), and pours extremely light and clear. Very bitter on the palate with a slight hop finish, it’s drinkable but to be honest not really that special. It would undoubtedly be nicer on cask, as it could mellow out the upfront bitterness a bit. Unfortunately Highgate went into administration last week with debts of over £1m, and although they’ve been purchased by new owners, the outlook is uncertain. They are continuing to brew however, which is something at least. (Publican Link).

Grainstore Ten Fifty (5.0%)
Grainstore Brewery, Rutland

The Grainstore Brewery are fond of their slogans - they take pride in being ‘the largest brewery in the smallest county’ (Rutland being only 18miles by 17miles at it’s longest spans). This gives rise to it’s motto ‘Multum in Parvo’ - ‘Much in Little’. They started in 1995 in an abandoned railway grainstore in Oakham, one of the two towns in Rutland. Ten Fifty is also a bitter, but this one pours with a mid-toffee brown colour and an opaque haziness. It tastes much nicer, with a rounded biscuity, hoppy finish from the Bramling and the tang of the Fuggles. It’s really quite nice and I’d certainly seek it out again.

Dashingly Dark (4.5%)
Derby Brewery, Derby

The pint I managed to knock back at the Wellington was during a wait for a train to the airport - but it was worth it. As ever, the plasma telly beer boards were lit with 15 beers, the majority from producers I’d never sampled before, or even heard of. Warwickshire Winters T’Ale? Morgan’s Gunpowder Ale? Salamander Figaro? I could have consulted one of the battered beer guides there, but the fun is just to charge in and pick one. I fancied a porter, so plumped for tap 13, Derby’s Dashingly Dark (4.5%). Served well, cask ales have no competition with bottled ales, and comparing porters to bitters doesn’t work either. So I’ll just say that DDD was smooth, dark, and had that classic roasted malt backbone with a hint of chocolate to add the sweetness. It was great stuff, and just the thing to take the boredom away from a long wait for a train…

We’ve been spoiled a bit on the BeerCast recently when we cast our minds to the subject of Imperial IPA’s. Those intensely hopped, low malt pale ales that originated in the USA are a favourite here (and a favourite of many other beer lovers on both sides of the pond). Over the past few months we’ve sampled Stone’s Ruination IPA, Great Divide’s Titan IPA, not to mention a pair from BrewDog – Atlantic IPA and Hardcore IPA. Well, now we managed to get our grubby little hands on one of the undoubted champions of the category – Dogfish Head’s 90 Minute Imperial IPA (9%).

Consistently ranked at or near the top of online beer polls, the Delaware craft brewery push a single, persistent ninety-minute hop addition into this beautifully hazy amber beer – they have other versions hopped for different lengths of time. We’re well aware that Dogfish Head are one of the most commonly-quoted and reviewed US craft brewers, it’s just that it can be so hard to track down their products in the UK – when you manage to get hold of a bottle, it needs to be savoured.

And savour is the word; every drop of this stuff is precious. It pours a hazy caramel colour with a menacing hue – the aroma is astonishing, massive hops, warming alcohol tingles the nose. The mouthfeel is also very warming, which disproves my theory about dark spicy beers working best in the chillier months. You need to chew your way through it, but it’s absolutely worth it. At the beginning it won’t affect your tastebuds the way a 9% beer should – later on though, they surrender and it really drinks to its par, coupled with a fantastic rising bitterness on the aftertaste. Simply one of the greatest beers in the world.

Dogfish Head website

Scotland has given many things to the world relating to drink – single malt whisky, Shetland gin, Irn-Bru, Rabb C Nesbitt – but also the distinctive Scottish Ale, and the Shilling scale of classification. Growing our beer knowledge in Scotland, from young students knocking back subsidised £1.20 pints of McEwans 70/- in Uni bars, we’ve become highly familiar with the classic range of beers and their increasing heftiness. Originally relating to prices charged per barrel – 60, 70, 80 and 90 shilling beers are characteristically Scottish (as are their alternate names – Light, Heavy, Export and Wee Heavy).

Trouble is, they are often also characteristically awful. They tend to have very similar flavours – dominated by general malty sweetness and overpowering caramel tastes. Our first ever BeerCast podcast was a discussion on 80/- ales and their tendency to be syrupy and cloying, yet weak and strangely unsatisfying. Personally, I take a wide berth from local market-leader Caledonian 80/- these days (although that could be down to many rough Sunday mornings during my campus days). But as a brewing style (or series of styles) they should be cherished, if only for historical reasons – much like the controversial British Mild.

Like milds, many breweries have turned their backs on Shilling ales – although the natural patriotism of Scottish brewers has meant many of them still produce at least an 80/- in their range. Some are even turning back the clock and re-discovering the humble Export. One such brewer are Alloa’s Williams Bros, who made their names reviving lost styles of Scottish beer, so are a natural choice to tempt “modern” ale drinkers (if we can call ourselves that) to take a punt on an 80/-. Launched in time to co-incide with the 2009 Sainsbury’s Beer Competition is Williams 80/- (4.2%). [It ended up making the final shortlist].

I’ve always thought the best thing about an 80/- is the smell – sweet, malty and a bit like toffee ice cream (at least this is what I get from the William Bros’ version). These are beers that need to be served only slightly cool – or chilled and then left to get back to room temperature before drinking. It pours carbonated, but with no head, just a thin lacing of bubbles and with a dark ruby, almost blackcurrant colour. As expected, the twin tastes that come at you are malt and sweetness, plus a touch of fruit – although we’re not into the fruitcakes of darker ales. It’s sweet though, and it gets sweeter as it warms – which is the problem I used to have with shilling ales, I think. There’s a slight taste of something akin to dandelion and burdock, which might just be me – anyway, it’s a nice beer, very drinkable, which for a style I’m not keen on probably means it’s much better than I give it credit for.

Williams Bros website

Hello again! This time it’s the London office’s turn to  fire up the ole garageband and get recording another instalment of the never ending story of wonder and intrigue  that is The BeerCast. We reunited the dreamteam of Andrew Hayes (Key keyboard and bitter consultant), Nick Fraenkel (Chief Japanese and Sanchen adviser) and old stalwarts Andy and Jess of Andy and Jess.

It’s another rollercoaster mystery pic n mix surprise episode with none of the usual theme guidelines to keep us on course. As a result we do off-road a fair bit but it’s all in the pursuit of beery excellence. Oh and garageband stopped twice during recording so look out for special sound effects during the episode - Enjoy! Andy

1. Peter Scholey’s Organic English Beer (4.1%abv)
Ridgeway Brewing, South Stoke, Oxfordshire.
500ml glass bottle

Ridgeway Brewing was formed by a former head brewer from Brakspear. Described as a cuckoo brewer because this organisation does not own a brewery but contracts brews, primarily bottled beers for other breweries on other people’s plants mainly at Hepworth. A few beers have also appeared under the name Ridgeway Brewery.

What They Say - “The English Target hops, coupled with its unpasteurised condition, help give this great ale outstanding clarity of aroma and intensity of flavour.” [Vintage Roots]

What We Say…
Andrew - I’d drink significant amounts of it in any kind of garden 7.5
Nick - Elderflowers and honey, i’d like it with some burnt bread 7
Andy - Smells flowery but it’s not too sweet 7
Jess - Lots of honey and lemon, lovely 7

2. Riggwelter Black Sheep Ale (5.7%abv)
Black Sheep Brewery, Masham, North Yorkshire.
500ml glass bottle

Established in the early nineties by Paul Theakston, 6th generation of Masham’s famous brewing family, the brewery has grown from strength to strength and in early 2007 it was proudly awarded ‘Brewery of the Year’ by The Good Pub Guide for the second year running. In addition, Black Sheep Bitter was chosen as the North East’s favourite cask ale in the 2007 Best of British Beer Awards hosted by Cask Marque and the Daily Telegraph.

What They Say - “Brewed with many generous handfuls of choice Golding hops, it is full flavoured premium ale with a rich fruity aroma. The bittersweet malty taste is followed by Black Sheep’s uncompromising long, dry and bitter finish” [Official Website]

What We Say…
Andrew - Surprisingly clean, hits you in the eyes a bit though 6
Nick - Bitter foretaste, not much of an aftertaste, not as complex as it should be 5
Andy - I would struggle to drink a bottle of it 5
Jess - Quite interesting, I’m getting Riggy with it 4

3. Little Creatures Pale Ale (5.1%abv)
Little Creatures Brewery, Fremantle, Western Australia
330ml glass bottle

Andrew picked this little gem up in from a wine shop in west London no-less. Beer websites tend to be bobbins but Little Creature’s website is a pleasure to visit, I’d really recommend it - (link). The brewery looks to be run very much in the spirit of the Innocent smoothie brand, with happy looking employees all having a say in the company’s progress and not a one of them sitting doing accounts on the computer. The result? Lovely beers. There’s a lesson there i think..

What They Say - “Bag loads of whole Chinook and Cascade hop flowers that we source from Washington and Oregon in the US as well as some local flowers from Tasmania are thrown at this beer, creating an intense citrus and grapefruit aroma and flavour that we balance with a careful selection of specialty malts and a local pale malt made to our own specifications.” [Official Website]

What We Say…
Andrew - Lychees, pineapples, I’ll open the second bottle 8
Andy - Smells like a bag of pot pour at your aunties 8
Jess - It’s downright floral, but a nice bitter grapefruit edge 8
Nick - Tastes like lychees and lollies (Chupa Chups) 5.5

4. Gale’s Seafarers Ale (3.6%abv)
Fullers, The Griffin Brewery, London.
500ml glass bottle

Fullers say they donate 5 for every barrel of Seafarers ale sold to Seafarers UK, the leading martime charity. The ale was only released in the bottle on Sep 10th 2009. The press release from Fuller’s says “Seafarers Ale is an extraordinary cask ale, developed as a tribute to Gales’ close association with all who sail the seas. Launched as a year-round beer in April 2009, Seafarers Ale has already sailed past the 1,000 barrels sold mark, resulting in a donation to Seafarers UK, the leading maritime charity, of £5,000″ That’s pretty good, but do good intentions translate to good beer tastes?..

What They Say - “Seafarers is brewed to 3.6% abv and is a delicious, thirst quenching ale. The secret of the hugely satisfying, refreshing taste of this light, amber beer is in the blend of finest quality English malt, Admiral hops and the unique Gales yeast.” [Official Website]

What We Say…
Andrew - It’s not slapping me in the face like the sea, but it has an edge of sulphur i quite like  5
Andy - A little bit watery (pun intended) 5
Jess - Disappointing, thought it would be more robust like a sailor 5
Nick - Smells like sea air, couldn’t tell the difference with Fosters 4.5

No then.

Panellists - (from top left) Andy&Jess, Andrew, Nick

BeerCast panel verdict
Little Creatures (29½/40)
Organic English Ale (28½/40)
Riggwelter Black Sheep (20/40)
Seafarers Ale (19½/40)

“Wie das land, so das Jever” is the motto of Lagerboy’s latest tempter - Jever Pilsener (4.9%). Being an internationally renowned lager expect and contributor to ‘What Shandy?’ magazine, he has to know a smattering of German to get by (not to mention Czech, Polish, Dutch, American). Loosely translated as something along the lines of ‘The Beer Like the Land’, Jever hails from the northern German principality of Friesland in Lower Saxony. As their official website reveals, Friesland’s soft water means they can add more hops into their beer, to give a slightly more bitter flavour than other pilseners - although that could just be ‘das marketing spiel’.

The “Friesische Brauhaus zu Jever” was founded by Diedrich König in 1848, yet it wasn’t until 1934 that their main product was christened after the town itself. Another of their slogans is ‘Friesisch Herb’, which translates as ‘Frisian Herb’ - possibly an indication of something else added to the beer. It pours a perfectly clear golden colour with a pillowy white head - it’s extremely carbonated and pulses with bubbles. The smell is crisp and hoppy, which comes through on the taste. It really is bitter - not Imperial IPA bitter, but bitter for a pilsener - and maybe there is something else in the taste. It could be wishful thinking given the suggested hint of herbs on the label, though. The extra zappy influences of the hops and mystery yes/no herbs lift Jever Pilsener above many of the others on the market, it’s really drinkable indeed.

Jever Official Website