Archive for September, 2008

BeerCast #21 - USA

Monday, September 22nd, 2008

As everybody knows, the legal drinking age in the United States is 21, and by a happy co-incidence our 21st podcast takes in four beers from that very country. America dominates the global brewing market, but there is a spirited craft beer scene that floats just under the mass-marketed bilge usually available over here. ‘Brewed to taste light’ - no thanks. The BeerCast foursome travel from sea to shining sea, and begin with a classic from the west coast - Anchor’s Liberty Ale. We then zip around a thousand miles inland to the Mile High City of Denver, and Great Divide’s Titan IPA, which we discover during recording is unfortunately three months out of date. So maybe the scores should be listed with an asterisk, or something. Our road trip east continues as we pitch up in Boston for Harpoon’s Winter Warmer, before enlarging our carbon footprint even more by returning to California to end with Sierra Nevada Porter. On the panel this week with Richard and Shovels are MrB and Grooben.


1. Anchor Liberty Ale (5.9%abv)
The Anchor Brewery, San Francisco, CA.
355ml glass bottle

The Anchor Brewing Company are a well-known feature of San Francisco, and started life in 1896 under the resourcefulness of two German immigrant brewers (Ernst Baruth and Otto Schinkel), who acquired the Pacific Brewery which had recently been started by another German ex-pat. After renaming it Anchor - the reasons why having been lost in time - they survived many tragedies and eventually overcame prohibition to become one of America’s most eminent producers. However, the 1960’s brought hard times, and they almost closed for good until being rescued in 1965 by a man named Fritz Maytag. San Franciscans certainly have much to thank him for.

What They Say - “Liberty Ale uses a special top-fermenting yeast to give subtle flavours and characteristics. Carbonation is produced by an entirely natural process called ‘bunging’, which produces champagne-like bubbles. Dry-hopping is also used to impart a unique aroma to the ale.” [Official Website]

What We Say
MrB - It’s an amazing beer which I really, really like
Grooben - Very robust strong flavour, hoppy not overpowering
Shovels - A beer with character, nothing insipid here
Richard - Not really drawing me in as much as it should 6


2. Titan IPA (6.8%abv)
Great Divide Brewery, Denver, CO.
355ml glass bottle

5280ft above sea level is apparently one mile - and just so happens to be the elevation of the USA’s 26th most populous city, Denver. In 1994 brewer Brian Dunn saw a gap in the market for a new producer in this outdoorsy (and predictably thirsty) city, and opened the Great Divide Brewery. They have since won 12 Great American Beer Festival medals (the first only 3 months after brewing their first batch). Producing 13 different beers, over half of them are self-styled “big beers” – imperial stouts, barley wines, and double IPA’s. Titan IPA falls into the latter category.

What They Say - “Brewed for hop disciples, Titan IPA is a big, aggressively hopped India Pale Ale – starting out with piney hop aromas and citrus hop flavours, and finishing with a rich, malty sweetness that is balanced with crisp hop bitterness.” [Label Tasting Notes] “Ruby red grapefruit juice, with touches of orange zest, backed by a bracing, minerally bitterness and finishing with a caramel sweet malt zing.” [Rocky Mountain Brewing News]

What We Say
MrB - It tastes of bread 7
Shovels - Initial alcohol taste but then other flavours come out
Richard - Pretty awful but nicer when I’ve had it before 5
Grooben - Tastes bitter and kind of strong, but what’s the point? 4


3. Harpoon Winter Warmer (5.5%abv)
Harpoon Brewery, Boston, MA.
355ml glass bottle

Boston’s Harpoon is said to be the largest craft brewery in New England, having been established in 1986 by three men, one of whom wrote a business plan for a brewery whilst at Harvard Business School. They expanded steadily in the late 1990’s, and in 2002 imported a state of the art brewhouse that had been built specially in Germany and shipped over. Harpoon produce four regular ales, plus a Hefeweizen called UFO (UnFiltered Offering) - Winter Warmer was their first seasonal beer to be developed, back in 1998, and is only available in the States between November and January.

What They Say - “When you bring a glass of this dark copper ale to your lips to take your first sip you will notice the aroma of cinnamon. There is no aromatic hop added that might overpower the distinct spice scent. The medium body of this beer is formed from caramel and pale malts, which create enough body to support the spices without making the beer excessively rich. Bittering hops are added to counter the sweetness of the malt and spice, and the finish of the beer is a blend of cinnamon and nutmeg. The combination of these two spices results in a balanced, pumpkin-pie flavor. The overall character is a smooth, medium bodied ale spiced with cinnamon and nutmeg.” [Official Website]

What We Say
Richard - Only tastes of cloves, it doesn’t really cut it 4
MrB - No body whatsoever, it badly needs a better base 4
Shovels - It smells of a lot and tastes of not so much 4
Grooben - Needs to be more robust to cope with the spices 3


4. Sierra Nevada Porter (5.6%abv)
Sierra Nevada Brewery, Chico, CA.
330ml glass bottle

On the 5th of November 1980, the Sierra Nevada brewery produced the first batch of their now-famous Pale Ale. Founded just the year before in Chico by an ex-homebrewer called Ken Grossman, they have gone on to become one of the largest and highest rated breweries in America. Ken studied Chemistry at California State University (which is in the aforementioned town), and after graduating remained to open a homebrew shop. Once he took the plunge and moved up to a brewery proper, the plaudits and awards soon followed.

What They Say - “Dark and rich, Sierra Nevada Porter is a delicious, medium-bodied ale with a creamy head. The Porter’s smooth flavour (malty with a hint of caramel) comes from a blend of deep-roasted barely malts.” [Official Website]

What We Say
Richard - Two different sweet malts make it cloying, but nice 6
MrB - Might be one of the smoothest porters I’ve ever had 5
Grooben - Decent but perhaps overly sickly for my taste 5
Shovels - Takes over the mouth with the sweet smoothness 5

BeerCast panel verdict

Anchor Liberty Ale (30½/40)
Titan IPA (22½/40)
Sierra Nevada Porter (21/40)
Harpoon Winter Warmer (15/40)


Panellists - (from top left) Shovels, MrB, Grooben, Richard

 

 

We’ll be back in a couple of weeks with our 22nd episode, a showcase edition on Gloucestershire’s Wickwar Brewery. Stay tuned for details…and please leave us comments on the blog or iTunes, or emails. Cheers!

Political Correctness Gone Mad?

Thursday, September 18th, 2008

One of Scotland’s classic beers could be in a whole lot of trouble. The Sinclair Orkney Brewery’s standout barleywine Skull Splitter (8.5%abv) has fallen foul of drinks industry watchdogs the Portman Group over it’s “aggressive” theme. The London based organisation have a strict (and rigidly enforced) code of practice on the naming and promotion of alcoholic drinks, to protect us members of the public from all kinds of potential evils:-

“The Code prohibits the marketing of alcoholic drinks to under-18s; the alcohol content of a drink must be made absolutely clear; its alcoholic strength should not be dominant; it must not encourage rapid or down-in-one drinking; there must be no association with illegal drugs, bravado, aggression or anti-social behaviour and any suggestion that the drink will lead to sexual success or increased popularity is also banned…”

Just recently a management consultancy (PIPC) produced a report for the Portman Group and highlighted Skull Splitter because “it’s name implies violence and also the impact the strength may have on the drinker”. If found to be in breach of the code (the Portman Group will meet later in the year to consider the PIPC report), Skull Splitter could be removed from sale. An idle threat? A quick look at their website reveals ‘Cider Drinks taken off shelves’ (Blackout Cider was deemed to carry “strong connotations of alcohol-induced unconsciousness”, and Mega White Cider was pulled up because the label described it’s ‘mega strength’).

It should be stressed that the group are made up of members of the drinks industry themselves, and any complaints made to them are heard by an independent panel currently chaired by former Director General of the Prison Service, Sir Richard Tilt. They switched to marketing regulation in the mid-1990’s alcopop boom, and no doubt saved many schoolkids hangovers as a result. They are also behind the established Drinkaware campaign.

But Skull Splitter is no Mega White Cider - it’s one of Scotland’s best barleywines, and massively popular (particularly in North America, where they know a thing or two about 8-12%’ers). It’s not sold in supermarkets or off licences, has won numerous awards, and the suggested food pairing on the label is pâté, for crying out loud! If the name Skull Splitter is aggressive, it’s because it’s named after Thorfinn Hausakluif, the Seventh Viking Earl of Orkney - who clearly had a firm way of settling arguments.

And as for the ‘implication that the strength will have on the drinker’ - how are breweries supposed to market strong ales? The first one specifically labelled as a barley wine was the turn of the century Bass No.1 Ale - no implication there. But all you have to do is Google for that style of drink, and what names do you get? Headcracker, Blithering Idiot, Old Horizontal, Buzzard’s Breath, and the quite brilliant Baz’s Bonce Blower. Are the Portman Group going after all of these as well?

The bottom line is Skull Splitter is a serious product, not cheap pissup fuel. The Portman Group have a serious responsibility, and removing the likes of Blackout Cider from our shelves can’t be that much of a bad thing (and that particular complaint was lodged from within the industry, by the National Association of Cider Makers) - but honestly, let’s hope common sense prevails and the Sinclair Orkney Brewery retain their strong ale and can continue to market it to lovers of strong beer everywhere…

…incidentally, we tried the beer in question when the BeerCast visited the Scottish Beer Festival in June. For the record, this is what we thought. We’ll keep you posted on the findings of the complaints panel when they meet later in the year.

5. Skull Splitter (8.5%)
Sinclair Orkney Brewery, Quoyloo, Orkney.
Recently named Scotland’s best Barleywine for 2008, Skull Splitter is a mighty concoction. We bought a collective half to sample (it was 4 o’clock in the afternoon) to see what the fuss was about. There’s certainly a distinctive ‘prunes soaked in vodka’ smell to it, although I didn’t pick up any of the suggested apple and/or plum. Very spicy taste, and surprisingly subtle, but to be honest one to sip in different surroundings than at a beer festival.

Brewery’s Skull Splitter Headache [BBC]
Sinclair Breweries

Lagerboy Speaks

Sunday, September 14th, 2008

There’s no denying Nils Oscar’s God Lager has an interesting title, as the classically-styled cream and silver label certainly grabs the attention. It got Lagerboy’s, that’s for sure (although anything higher up than Tennants usually will). The name refers less to a religious beer experience than the translation of ‘Good Lager’ into the brewery’s native Swedish. Situated about 100km south of Stockholm in the Södermanland region, Nils Oscar were founded in 1996 and named after a distant relative Nils Oscar Sunderberg, who was born in 1865 and has his picture proudly displayed on the bottle.

As with Lagerboy’s previous posting regarding the Monteith Brewery in New Zealand, Nils Oscar are far more than an isolated one-trick pony. Perusing their website, they too knock out a wide range of styles including IPA’s, dark porters, barley wines and a Kalasjulöl - a Christmas beer that changes recipe every year (and we like those here at the BeerCast). Apart from the ales, they also find time to produce different types of vodka, and that infamous Scandinavian firewater, aquavit - serving suggestion…“Eat good and sing lots of Christmas carols among good friends.”

But back to the boring old lager - or so you would think. In fact, God Lager is anything but. Brewed as a Dortmunder-style offering with four different hops including Hersbrucker and Tettnanger, it gives off a dark earthy malt aroma. At 5.3%abv it packs a decent punch, and is highly carbonated with a strong lager aftertaste. It is the biggest seller for the brewery, and was the first to carry the Nils Oscar name - you certainly get the impression they have put everything into it. This one isn’t a refreshing summer lager for the outdoors, more an Autumnal evening one for savouring. Either way, it really is something.

Nils Oscar Brewery

BeerCast #20 - White Rose Beers

Friday, September 5th, 2008

The BeerCast reaches the 20th podcast landmark today, and to celebrate we sample four beers from the county of the White Rose. Very different tipples from the last episode, as we move North away from the flowery golden ales and enter the realm of darker stuff. Firstly we begin with a classic session bitter from the region - the York Brewery’s Yorkshire Terrier. We follow that up with one of their maltier offerings, Centurion Ghost Ale, complete with suitably scary label. We then move a few dozen miles up the road to Harrogate and the Daleside Brewery. Their excellent IPA made it to our Beer of the Year show last January, so we had high hopes for their Daleside Porter and then Daleside Chocolate Stout, which we end the show with. On the panel this week with Richard and Shovels are welcome returns from MrB and John (neither of whom had ever tried a chocolate beer). Thanks again to Faye at the Daleside Brewery for their beers.


1. Yorkshire Terrier (4.2%abv)
The York Brewery, York.
500ml glass bottle

Both a working brewery and a guided tour attraction for visitors, the York Brewery was founded in 1996. It’s the only one within the city’s famous walls, and when opened in a converted motorbike showroom it became the first beer producer in York for more than forty years. They have a 20 barrel brewplant and an onsite bar for eighty people, giving guided tours for £6 a time, which includes a free half of one of their finest at the beginning and one at the end. They also own three pubs in the city – the Three Legged Mare, the Last Drop and the Yorkshire Terrier, named after their flagship beer.

What They Say - “A premium bitter with a rich, creamy malt and full hop palate finish.” [Official Website]

What We Say
MrB - Damn it’s good 8
Richard - It’s a very nice, drinkable, Northern bitter
Shovels - A tasty session beer, although nicer on cask
John - Refreshing without being too strong, very moreish 7


2. Centurion Ghost Ale (5.4%abv)
The York Brewery, York.
500ml glass bottle

What They Say - “A warming, dark bitter ale, with a roasted malt taste. Very easy to drink for it’s strength.” [Official Website]

What We Say
Richard - Dark roasty taste yet it’s easy to drink
MrB - Could be a session ale - but you’d hurt in the morning 6
John - Smells great but tastes a bit iffy, not that impressed 5
Shovels - Burnt malty taste that lingers at the top of the mouth 5


3. Daleside Porter (4.4%abv)
Daleside Brewery, Harrogate.
500ml glass bottle

The Daleside Brewery were founded in the mid-1980’s in the genteel North Yorkshire spa town of Harrogate. They moved to their current location in 1992, and produce three cask and seven bottled beers, using over 18 different types of hops in their varying brews. Their IPA featured in BeerCast #3, waaaay back in August 2007, and did rather well.

What They Say - “Brewed exclusively for export, Daleside Porter is distinctively dark in colour, full of body with a smooth velvet finish.” [Official Website]

What We Say
Shovels - It brings a little sparkle to the eyes 7
MrB - A bit less smoky than the Centurion maybe
Richard - Carbonation spoils the smooth velvet finish
John - Slightly better than the last one, but not remarkable 6


4. Daleside Chocolate Stout (4.0%abv)
Daleside Brewery, Harrogate.
500ml glass bottle

What They Say - “Aroma of cocoa and coffee, hints of tar, wood and leather. Creamy mouthfeel. The flavour is dominated by cocoa/chocolate, also notes of coffee, brown bread and burnt caramel, a little fruit too.” [Oxford Bottled Beer Database]

What We Say
John - Would be a good after dinner beer, it’s nice and warming 7
Shovels - Tastes more coffee than chocolate but I quite like it 7
MrB - It’s particularly good, the nicest dark beer tonight 7
Richard - The three malts mix detract from the chocolate taste 5

BeerCast panel verdict

Yorkshire Terrier - 30/40
Daleside Porter - 26/40
Daleside Chocolate Stout - 26/40
Centurion Ghost Ale - 22½/40


Panellists - (from top left) MrB, John, Richard, Shovels

 

 

We’ll be back in a couple of weeks with episode 21, the BeerCast’s first foray into the world of American beer! Stay tuned for details on our USA craft beer special…and please leave us comments on the blog or iTunes, or emails. Cheers!

Halfway to Orkney

Monday, September 1st, 2008

The other Friday we ventured out into a muggy Edinburgh night to celebrate the famous festival. Not the Fringe, or the International, but the Halfway House’s Beer Festival. Each week in August the smallest and friendliest pub in Edinburgh™ showcases a different Scottish brewer and blankets the hand pumps with their offerings. For the final week in August it was the turn of the Highland Brewing Company, who make their home at Swannay in Orkney.

We’re big fans of Orkney at the BeerCast (not least panellist grooben, who grew up there) - we featured the pick of Orcadian ales in our Northern Isles podcast at the start of the year, and have twice been to the Scottish Beer Festival won by Highland’s beers - without being able to try them as they had sold out before we got there on both occasions. With characteristic thoroughness, the Halfway House had pretty much their entire range on offer.

It was blink-and-you-miss-it stuff, though - as we arrived their four pumps had Orkney IPA, Scapa Special, St Magnus Ale and Dark Munro on offer. Starting off with the excellent IPA, which was the first beer I tried at this year’s aforementioned Scottish Beer Festival, we were looking forward to moving through the styles. Orkney IPA really is something, far more zingy hops than Caledonian’s Deuchars IPA. Anyhow, we then went for the Scapa Special - reigning Champion Beer of Scotland, which was golden and more complex than the IPA, but equally as good.

St Mangus Ale had gone off at this point, and I managed to scrape a pint of Dark Munro before it too finished. I was glad I did though, as it rivals the Northern Isles true classic, Sinclair’s Dark Island. The Scottish punters agree too, as it was Champion Beer of Scotland last year before being deposed by it’s stablemate Scapa Special. But the depleted pumps didn’t stay idle for long, as quickly Orkney Best and Orkney Blast arrived. The second of these featured in our January podcast, and although it finished midtable, the 6.0% warmer is far superior on cask.

Look out for our forthcoming second Edinburgh Pub Guide, which as you can imagine given this post, will feature the Halfway House.

Highland Brewery, Orkney
Halfway House website